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| Fluted Rib Scarf - Side 1 |
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| Fluted Rib Scarf - Side 2 |
Here's how it goes:
100g (220 yards) of worsted weight yarn in white
100g (220 yards) of worsted weight yarn in blue
1 pair US Size 8 (5.0mm) knitting needles
Darning needle to weave in ends
Abbreviations:
K – knit
P – purl
Sl –slip (slip stitch purlwise from left to right needle without working the stitch
Wyif – with yarn in front – move yarn to front of work between needles before slipping next stitch
Wyib – with yarn in back – move yarn to back of work between needles before slipping next stitch
Directions:
Cast on 33 stitches using one color (I started with blue). This cast on will result in an approximately 6" wide scarf. Cast on in multiples of 4+1 for a wider or narrower scarf.
Row 1 (side 1): P1, *K1, Sl1 Wyif, K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row
Row 2 (side 2): K1, *Sl1 Wyib, P1, Sl1 Wyib, K1, repeat from * to end of row
Repeat Rows 1 and 2, creating either solid bands by knitting several pairs of rows in one color, or changing colors every two rows. You do not need to cut yarn when changing colors every two rows, just carry the yarn just used up the side by twisting it around the yarn that will be used next.
When scarf has reached desired length of 60 inches, bind off and weave in ends.
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| Side 1 detail - see the fluted columns? |
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| Side 2 detail - looks like ribbing, right? |
I chose the following sequence for my scarf:
6 rows blue
20 rows alternating white and blue every 2 rows
6 rows white, 6 rows blue, 6 rows white, 6 rows blue, 6 rows white
20 rows alternating blue and white every 2 rows
6 rows blue, 6 rows white, 6 rows blue, 6 rows white, 6 rows blue 60 rows alternating white and blue every 2 rows
6 rows white, 6 rows blue, 6 rows white, 6 rows blue, 6 rows white
20 rows alternating blue and white every 2 rows
6 rows blue, 6 rows white, 6 rows blue, 6 rows while, 6 rows blue
20 rows alternating white and blue every 2 rows
6 rows white
I really like the resulting fabric of this pattern. It would make a really nice vest or light coat, in addition to a cushion or bag. Just using the first and last 5 stitches in a scarf pattern would make a very interesting selvage treatment for a scarf or wrap edge.
I hope you give it a try. Let me know if you have any questions or comments.
I really like your scarf pattern, however, can't seem to get it just right.
ReplyDeleteI have tried knitting with the 33 stitches and keep getting two extra stitches at end. I am counting this as a multiple of five stitches
k1, s1, wyif, K1, P1...do you know what I am doing incorectly? Just love this scarf pattern. Thanks so much. (Found it on Ravelery and will also pose the question in a forum)
Make sure when you repeat, you only do the stitches between * and *, the first stitch of the lines are only for the first stitch and not for the repeating of the rest of the line.
DeleteThe slip 1 with yarn in front is one action involving one stitch, not two stitches. So move the yarn to the front between the needles, slip a stitch, then move the yarn to the back between the needles so that you can knit the next stitch. Make sure the yarn does not go over the needle when moving from front to back. Hope this helps.
ReplyDeleteSarah B
I just started my6th super bowl scarf with this pattern. Thanks. Pam
ReplyDeleteThanks so much for this pattern. I'm going to use it for the Special Olympic scarves I've been making.
ReplyDeleteI knit d first 6 rows n I think I did them right, but when I compared it wid ur pic it doesn't hv the bulge on one side(like ur first pic does)...
ReplyDeleteWill that start to show as I knit more rows or am I doing something wrong here??
Hi Rani, I would think that by 6 rows the pattern would be visible -but it might depend on your yarn, needles and gauge. At a looser gauge, the ridge would probably be less pronounced. The ridge on the reverse side is formed by the knit between two slip stitches with yarn in the back. Also, make sure you are slipping the stitches purlwise, else they will be stisted and that might affect the look as well.
ReplyDeleteFee free to email me (see contact me) if this doesn't help.
Thanks so much for sharing this pattern. I made a scarf for the super bowl project. It was easy to knit once I caught on to the pattern, and my friends were very impressed! I especially appreciated the fact that you could carry the yarn and didn't have lots of ends to weave whenever there was a change of color.
ReplyDeleteJoan
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ReplyDeleteI have a minor concern about the pattern. Looking at the right side, the right hand border lies flat. The left hand border curls in. Is this intentional or is there a technique I can use to solve this problem.?
ReplyDeleteOn row 2, how can you put yarn to back when previous stitch is k1? The yarn is already at the back? Am I being dense?
ReplyDeleteNo, you are correct, but maybe just overthinking a little bit. The instruction is just telling you to "slip one with yarn in back" not "take the yarn to the back." In this pattern, then slip stitch is worked with yarn both in front and in back, depending on which row. So it is necessary to tell the knitter where the yarn should be placed when slipping the stitch, in front or in back of the work. Happy knitting!
Deletewhen slipping the stitches, are they all slipped as purls or does it matter?
ReplyDeleteslipped as purls. But you might get an interesting effect if you slipped as knit - this will twist stitches, so gauge will be tighter. But if you slipped as to knit consistently, the twist might look interesting.
ReplyDelete